There’s a feeling of strength, purpose and oneness I found whilst cycling the North Coast 500 that’s hard to come by in other parts of my life.
500 miles ~ 6 days ~ 10,000m climbing
There’s a point to the miles being tapped out day after day, hour after hour. I’m on a mission, an adventure, a pursuit of the challenge, of completing the route, seeing what’s around the corner, of managing my body and mind to go the distance, of finding ways to distract myself from the pain and the part of me that wants to rest, and working towards who I’m going to be at the end. I’m competing with myself to compete the challenge I’ve set.
Purpose, passion and strength
I’m in pursuit of the way my heart and soul swell from the roads I cycle, the views that take my breath away, emotions I feel and the way I work through and overcome whatever obstacles come my way.
I love looking down at my legs and watching them go. Thinking about how hard they are working for me and the pursuit of this challenge, as if detached from the rest of my body, just ploughing on. They are amazing!
Strength is knowing yourself
No matter what we have, we have to own it. We have to take what we are born with and make the most of it. I often think about how much energy and time is wasted wishing we were different and not being happy with what we have. I can tell you this for sure, when you are cycling 500 miles around the North Coast of Scotland or doing your own equivalent challenge, those thoughts do not enter your mind. You feel strong and proud in who you are and the incredible body you have that’s enabling you to have these experiences.
In fact, not many thoughts enter my mind apart from what I am doing. I wish everyone could do something like this once a year, or even once in your lifetime. We need it! I switch off from everything. A challenge like this is so all encompassing that I don’t have space for much else. All my energy goes into the challenge, and the micro world I create with the adventure I am on, the world directly around me and the people I am with. My world becomes small but this gives me freedom to become bigger than I’ve ever felt. My mind is not filled with events going on all over the world, with emails, news, social media, and the need to reply to messages, my mind is filled with fresh air and miles, hills, sweat, tears and food stops. My mind is filled with views so dramatic and mind-blowing, I am speechless. My heart flips a bit with each corner I turn and the awe that the NC500 route delivers again and again.
I wonder “How is it possible that today could be more beautiful than yesterday, that right now could be more beautiful than a few hours ago?”
“How is it possible that this beauty exists in the world. That it’s always here, that we can access it for free, that it gives us so much and all we have to do is make the effort to get here and see it. Scotland, I freakin’ love you!!”
Mind-blowing scenery
The NC500 is truly the most magnificent route I have EVER cycled. I can’t see how anything could surpass the majestic beauty and diversity of Scotland’s West Coast. Even though it was so tough to cycle, and the hills can be a real killer, I was thinking “I love this, but it’s pretty tough so I doubt I’ll come back and do it again” but now I’m home, I’m thinking “I can’t believe it’s all over and I can’t wait to do it all over again!” Funny how quickly we forget the hard parts and only remember the good.
I took on this challenge in early June 2019. I hired a VW campervan from Campervantastic and drove up from London with my friend and amazing photographer who captured these pictures, Ollie Coleman. We had no fixed plans of where to sleep or how far I would cycle each day, we planned it the night before which is totally my style. Not having everything planned out and being surprised by what’s coming next is part of what makes it an adventure for me. There’s plenty of campsites along the way and although it’s a good idea to book in advance, you can also rock up and find a space.
Here’s a run through of what happened each day with links to the places we camped, help to plan your own adventure and places to explore en-route.
Day 1: Inverness to Lochcarron
63.4 miles - 2277ft climbing - 2772 calories burned
The route starts from Inverness Castle. I knew I wanted to stop for the first night before the big climb - Beleach Na Ba and lochs are always beautiful so I chose Lochcarron. We stayed at Wee Campsite. I arrived having smashed out 60 miles by 2:30pm and it was raining hard. Ollie went off and ran a half marathon – furthest he’d ever run! I relaxed in the camper trying to avoid the midges and dry my kit! I had the biggest smile on my face all day despite the constant rain and grey skies. The road goes the same way towards the Isle of Skye and I loved cycling it. Beautiful purple rhododendrons were in bloom and wide-open roads. Just amazing to feel that sense of complete oneness I feel when I’m cycling. I missed that so much. I also loved being on my own not just for the headspace but being able to totally do my thing, go at my own speed and not feel pressure to go faster, slower, stop, go or even talk. Just amazing.
Day 2: Locharron to Gairloch
80.37 miles - 6690ft climbing - 3998 calories
Woke up at 5:30am to clear skies and headed up Beleach Na Ba. I feel strong, the climb is an amazing gradient and empty roads. I meet Scarlett on the way up who is spending a month cycling around Scotland and doing the NC500 as part of it. She’s carrying all her kit on her bike and smashing it out! Great to meet another girl and ride with her for a bit.
Feeling grateful
For the last two days I’ve been thinking mainly about how insanely lucky I am. I know we create our own luck and I’ve worked hard for everything, but I’m feeling so so so lucky! Not only to be cycling this epic North Coast 500 and to actually be here, in Scotland that I love so much, but I also feel so grateful for my body. I haven’t trained for this. I have barely cycled more than 500 miles in the last two years and now I’m smashing out six days of intense cycling, relentless hills and feeling strong. After years of endurance challenges, I know how to manage my body and mind and so far my plan is playing out well.
After the Beleach Na Ba climb, I descend into Applecross and stop for tea and cake to warm up after the cold descent. It’s 11am, clear blue skies and sunshine.
The next 20 miles are stunning. Undulating coastal roads overlooking the Isle of Skye and the glistening sea dancing in the sunlight. I facetime Mum and love seeing her smiling face as a reaction to my big smiles! I‘m loving this so much!! Highland cows line the route and there are all sorts of vehicles going by from motorbikes, to classic cars and campervans. Everyone is polite and gives way, so I feel safe.
We stop for lunch in Shielding, a gorgeous quaint village and eat ham and cheese sandwiches with crisps in the sun. My favourite! I press on. Next up is the epic Torridon!! Never been here before but heard many great things and after years of exploring my love affair with Scotland it’s amazing to finally be on the West Coast that everyone has said I need to visit.
West is Best!
Torridon is incredible, the long and empty roads carving through the mountains are the kind that cyclists dream of! I fly along Loch Maree and Ollie gets some more epic drone shots. Pressing onto Gairloch I am pleased to be feeling strong despite the miles and mountains in my legs which is good as I still have a lot of miles and mountains left to cycle. At this point, I’m not even thinking about the end because it still feels a million miles away.
I pull into Gairloch Sands Caravan and Camping. The campsite has a pizza van, well stocked shop, pet lambs, a golden retriever, lovely showers and everyone is enjoying the afternoon sun. We hook up our electric, set up camp and start making dinner. There’s a few midges around but nothing too bad.
Day 2 Strava Route
Day 3: Gairloch to Lochinver
90.62 miles - 6873ft - 4403 cal
Despite being exhausted after big days in the saddle, I am not sleeping well. After another sleepless night, I wake up to my body starting to hurt. Yet as I get ready for another big day on the bike, the sun starts to break through and I take this as a good omen for the day. I have no idea what’s ahead, and I love that. I love not having the route planned or knowing what’s coming up. It’s a complete surprise this way. Today is filled with big ascents through forests followed by long, sweeping descents past stunning white sandy beaches and coastal bays. And sunshine. Absolutely sensational!!! The area around Aultbea and Mellon Udrigle, is incredibly beautiful and if I had a few more days I would have stopped here to explore. I want to push hard on this cycle as that is the focus. 6 days to complete it is perfect for me. Half a day chilling on a beach would have been lovely, but I also know that’s not why I am here. I take an hour lunch break in the sunshine, stop when I want, take pictures when something blows my mind and get into camp around 5. The rest of the time I’m on my bike.
We press on into the vast wilderness. Mountains towering around me and just this one road carving through the valley. I love pushing hard on the descents, I fly at 35 mph. Feels like sheer power pulsing through my body. We stop and have lunch on our deck chairs overlooking the valley and then I press on to Ullapool. Today feels different to yesterday; the climbs are longer and fewer so I can really get into the ups and downs. Feels more suited to me.
Hills, hills, hills
From Ullapool to Lochinver the route ups it’s game once again. There’s a massive downpour and I’m soaked through but I don’t mind because it’s not cold and it’s all part of the adventure. I ride with a couple from Ireland but after a while I let them go and do my own thing again. I pass through a valley that’s something out of the ice age and Ollie catches up with me. We take a single-track road to Lochinver and are blown away once again by what’s around the corner. On my left are stunning deep blue lochs and on my right is Stac Polliadh which I would really love to go back and hike.
Chocolate saves the day!
My legs are feeling tired and not wanting to rush through this amazing section of the route, I take my time and enjoy it. Ollie, noticing a drop in my energy, gives me a chocolate bar - which saves the day - and then I crack on up another hill.
So much to see, feel and experience
I tell him I have about 15 miles to go, so should be done within an hour or so. I must have forgotten I was in Scotland and as the route kicks again I realise how wrong my expectation was. We head into some of the most beautiful and wild area of the entire NC500 – Inverkirkaig. Would have been an ideal place to wild camp but I want to get a few more miles under my belt before stopping for the night. Tree lined single track, rivers, gorgeous afternoon sunshine, tiny little villages, very steep short and sharp hills – up, down, up, down - stunning coast and very few signs of civilisation. Just raw beauty. I am overcome by the beauty, effort and experience of it all and feel tears brimming in my eyes as I take it all in.
Don’t miss the Lochinver Pie Larder!
We reach Lochinver at 5pm and ALMOST cycle past in famous Lochinver Pie Larder – what a mistake that would have been! We get hot pies - great because I am starving and I love that Ollie is always hungry and up for eating whatever I am despite not cycling! I only have 5 miles left and think that they shouldn’t take too long, but the hills are really packing a punch on my tired legs!!!
Finally we arrive at Shore Caravan Site - a brilliant campsite right on a beach that rivals those in the Caribbean! There’s a fish and chip shop so we have that on the beach for dinner.
Making Friends
A man named Rupert is parked next to us with his yellow camper, bike and Kelloggs cycle jersey. He comes right over and introduces himself with his big smile and evident Joie de Vivre! He says “I bet by six degrees of separation we know each other” I say, “Ooh I love this game!” First question: “What’s your name?” Second question: “You mentioned, you’ve just left your job, where did you work?” Rupert: “I work for Kelloggs” me: “There we go! That’s amazing… I’m an ambassador for Special K”
He brings us G&Ts and we drink them in the glorious late afternoon sunshine. How lucky are we?! We head to the beach with our fish and chips wearing jackets and beanies. Lol. Welcome to Scotland J Might be the most beautiful beach and wall to wall sunshine, but you still need a woolly hat and down jacket. We chat a bit but mainly we enjoy this moment with our own thoughts – I love it when two people can sit in silence together and not feel the need to fill it.
Day 4: Lochinver to Durness aka in the Pain Cave!
60.95 miles - 5203 ft - 3182 calories
Getting out of bed at 5:30am is starting to feel hard. My body aches, my neck is so tight and my legs are stiff but I’m ok. Ollie cooks an amazing breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausages, avocado, tomatoes and toast. We LOVE our van!! Hired from CamperVanTastic in London. I’m really hungry today and after burning more calories than I can consume I feel the weight dropping off me.
Tired legs and big hills to start day 4
The first leg of today to Drumbeg is SO HARD!! The hills are continuous, short and very steep. Drumbeg is beautiful and some say it’s their favourite section of the route, but I think doing something so intense with tired legs before warming up was super hard and maybe not the best ahead of another long day on the bike! The weather continues to be beautiful which wasn’t in the forecast. We hear that it’s raining heavily in the rest of the country. I press on with the hills ever present and getting longer. LOL!!!
After a long descent, I see the stunning valley of Loch Glencoul open up leading to Kylesky Bridge. So majestic!! I ride over it loving every minute and decide it’s lunch time. Ollie and I chill for a bit, eat chocolate, drink a can of coke to try and get some energy. My plan is to aim for Bettyhill tonight but I discuss with Ollie that I’m feeling pretty tired today and better to aim for Durness. Making it a 60ish mile day rather than 90. The route is beautiful up to Durness and the skies are blue but the head wind is crazy and I fight the whole entire way. It’s so hard!!! Deep in the pain cave all day today. I have chats with myself. I get into the zone and think about the quote about fighting with a gorilla. It never gets easier, you just go faster. Somehow, accepting the pain, not fighting it and just getting on with it, makes it easier.
The Pain Cave
In the midst of my pain cave, I look up and realise there’s not another soul in sight for miles around. High up on the plateau, I’m moving along a single road carving through the wilderness with mountains flanking me. Even though it hurts, there’s nowhere I’d rather be. It’s day 4 and I’ve done really well to stay out of the pain cave until today. I feel like there’s still so much more depth to how much it could hurt in comparison to what I’ve put myself through in the past. I’m simultaneously thinking what the F am I doing whilst also knowing that there’s no place I’d rather be and when it’s over I will miss all of it.
One goal, one dream, one girl, one bike
The simplicity of life on the road. This singular focus, dedication and purpose to my days. Starting in Inverness, you’ve got 6 days to get back and 500 miles to cycle. No matter what comes at you, you have to find a way to work through it, to keep fighting for your dream. That’s what I love and what makes it a challenge.
Today, my body is tired. My knee is starting to grumble and my throat is sore. I feel like I’m coming down with something which makes me feel low. For the first time in this trip I don’t feel like a beer tonight. Just going to sleep!
Compassion is everything!
But I give myself time and permission to feel it all. Compassion is key! I stop and lie on the grass for 10 minutes overlooking a loch before taking on another hill. After years of endurance I know how to get the best from my body. I’ve learnt when to keep pushing and when to give myself a break. I stretch all the time on the bike and every time I stop. That keeps my muscles loose and releases the lactic acid that builds up on the climbs.
Pushing for the final 10 miles and still battling this crazy headwind! It’s demoralising to look at my garmin and see how hard I’m working to go 20mph downhill when it should feel effortless at 30. But it’s all part of it. I’m constantly checking in with myself and rationalising the discomfort I feel “Will it kill me?” No… So keep going.
It’s all in your mindset… keep doubt at bay!
There’s never any doubt in my mind that I will complete this challenge, I just keep that thought completely off-radar. With endurance challenges, you need a resolute mindset. You have no space or surplus energy for anything that doesn’t serve the purpose of helping you get from A to B, least of all doubt. Doubt: the biggest sucker of precious time and energy. There’s no place for it in my camp. So it’s all about my mental strategies to keep on pushing.
One mile to go to Durness and there’s another friggin’ hill!!!! Urgh! I have a little chuckle to myself, I love Scotland but I know full well that this is not the place you come to if you want an easy ride. It’s full of challenging surprises and this route really lives up to that.
I come over the hill and the town of Durness is basking in glorious sunshine. Relief, joy, satisfaction, fatigue and hunger hit me all at once. I find the campervan in Sango Sands Oasis and a message from Ollie saying he’s exploring nearby caves. I devour my favourite power snack: peanut butter and blueberries on crackers.
That evening I struggle through dinner and can’t wait to sleep. Rupert joins us and asks if I’d prefer the wind on my back and rain in my face, or what we had today which was sun on my face and a headwind pushing against me. Definitely the latter. I’ve been so lucky with the weather and I’m always looking at the positives, the small things to be grateful for that make a big difference.
It takes me ages to get to sleep and we are woken up at 2am by two guys playing horrendous music very loud in their car. After a while Ollie gets up and asks them to stop. Thankfully they do!
Day 5: Durness to John 'O Groats
93.47 miles - 6185 ft - 4346 cal
Emotional start to the day
I’m tearful in the morning and snooze the alarm from 5:30 to 7:30am. Dad leaves me a message which makes me cry, I guess it’s thinking of him thinking of me, it feels nice. I feel like my friends and family are so used to me doing crazy challenges, that they think it’s easy or normal for me, so it’s nice when I still get that support and encouragement because it’s anything but normal or easy.
My knee hurts and my nose is streaming like I’ve got a cold coming on. Knowing I still have 200 miles to cycle in two days seems ludicrous. I have no idea how this is going to go down and tell Ollie “Today could get emotional.”
Positive Mindset
But it’s the small things that bring joy and positivity and today it’s having a cuddle with our ‘van neighbours’ cat, Rupert’s encouragement, and we discovered a delicious new breakfast; Peanut butter in Special K with blueberries and bananas!
Powered up, I hit the road. I also have some info from a friend cycling the NC500 one day ahead of me that this was his favourite day, “The hills are nothing like before and you should crush it.” That’s encouraging.
Ordinary people doing extraordinary things
On the first hill out of Durness I meet a group of cyclists from Inverness doing the NC500 in five days. With a big day in the saddle ahead, it really helps to make progress early on and riding with these guys, chatting away, is a great distraction. Nigel, the leader of their group, tells me he got diagnosed with cancer from asbestos poisoning in 2016 and was given a year to live. However, he did a medical trial and survived! How amazing. And quite surreal cycling next to a man who tells me he shouldn’t be here. One Life, Live it! His Birthday present from his wife is supporting him and his friends on the NC500.
The route to Tongue is an incredibly beautiful road over an estuary before pressing on to Bettyhill. The route starts to flatten out and the Lemsip kicks in. Today has the same ascent as the days before but it doesn’t hurt as much because they are more undulating rather than short and sharp! I pass stunning beaches with crystal clear water, white sand and turquoise sea glimmering in the light, like Bettyhill. I don’t stop for long as I’m on a quest to get to John o Groats! The most northerly point in the UK, the farthest I’ve been (apart from Shetland) and a big milestone on this ride.
Final push to The End of The Road
I message Ollie as I arrive into Thurso “20 miles to go!!” I meet up with Nigel’s group and chat some more but with eight of them they are faffing a bit and I want to get my head down and nail it. I know when to push forward and blast it and when to conserve energy. It all comes down to listening to my body. I am strong on flat ish sections where it’s all about power and I’m strong downhill. The hills going up and down the whole time really take it out of me! I take it easier on hillier sections, but today, with 20 miles to go I press hard and fly! There’s a pretty strong headwind but it is SO empowering looking at my watch and seeing I’m flying along at 22 mph at the end of a 90 mile day five days into the North Coast 500. Let’s do this!!
I arrive into John o Groats and see a sign ‘The end of the road’ - Ollie is there. He whips out a beer, I must be feeling better as I want to drink it! It tastes soooo good! There’s a whole bunch of people there; Japanese tourists, motorcyclists, a guy who walked there in 2 months from Lands End, and us.
Rather than taking the A9 through Wick to the finish at Inverness Castle, we’d decided to take a safer route from Tongue for the final day back to Inverness Castle. I decide to stay in Tongue because I love the vast wilderness feel of it and the Kyle of Tongue Holiday Park looks cool with not many people there. Within an hour we’re in Tongue and I love this stretch in the van with Ollie, listening to music, enjoying the heated seats and chatting to my adventure pal. Having started today thinking “I just need to get this done and I can’t wait to finish,” I’m now feeling a pang of sadness that I’m one day away from finishing this challenge and I already want to do it all over again!
Tongue campsite has the NC500 beers I’ve been looking for! I buy six. Ollie makes a huge omelette filled with cheese, mushrooms and broccoli. We are in bed by 9:30 and try to sleep.
Day 6: Tongue to Inverness
92.35 miles - 4196 ft - 4120 cal
Wind and rain batter our van ALL night! Not ideal. I literally can’t sleep and wake up feeling horrendous as my body is aching and my cold feels worse. Tears again.
Phone a Friend
I call my Mum, Charly and Luke whilst Ollie is in the shower. The only person I get through to is Charly and she reminds me “You don’t stop when it gets hard, you do what you say you are going to do, you can do this. It’s the final push, take a deep breath and remember your why. You are inspiring so many people! Think of how amazing you’ll feel when you’ve finished.”
The route from Tongue avoiding the busy A9 is a very good choice! I love not having everything planned out and making decisions spontaneously based on the info I have at hand. So fun and refreshing to live like this for a few days. I crush 15 miles whilst cruising alongside a remote loch high in the moors. There is nothing around. Hundreds of miles of moorland stretch out in all directions. There’s barely any signs of life including trees, it’s barren moorland. The road carves through the mountains, with not another soul in sight. Just me and the road for the last day. I shriek and whoop, I smile and ride with no hands. I feel incredibly free and strong!!
Perfect lunch stop to fuel hungry cyclist
We stop for lunch at Mac and Wild – another reason why this route is a good choice! OMG those burgers! I’m wet through from sweat and it feels good to sit inside for an hour.
45 miles to go!! Ollie is amazing in how he supports me, he stays close and goes ahead to make sure I’m safe and ok on this final section.
Taking it all in
I’m taking it a bit easier today, just enjoying the miles and the feeling of knowing I’m going to do it!! The last 20 miles are on a bike path and there’s a few hills and uneven road surface, but it’s definitely worth it instead of the main A9 road. It starts to rain - typical!! - as I approach the bridge to Inverness. Ride over it and it’s only a few miles to go. I’ve hit over 90 miles and finally I’m there at the castle! Ollie is there of course with a big smiles, hugs and high fives. It’s pouring with rain, exactly the same weather as when I started!
We do the interviews for the film we’re making, take photos, get changed, drive to Aviemore, pick up supplies and go camp at Loch Morlich. I’m exhausted and haven’t quite felt the endorphins yet, mainly a sense of relief and comfort that it’s done.
Loch Morlich is beautiful and there’s this eerie blue light as the daylight fades into night. I wake up at 7:30am after what feels like the first sleep since we started this thing! I am completely wiped and can’t wait to take the time on the journey back to London to let it all sink in.
Reflections on the way home
What an unbelievable eight days it’s been since leaving London! Driving back to London in the rain and I feel this sense of excitement for the future - what lies ahead - now that the North Coast 500 is done. It’s something I’ve always loved about challenges; when you really push yourself you change as a person and pave the way for your life to shift and move in a different direction with your new-found strength and energy at the helm. You never know where this might lead to!
I am happiest when I am focused on one goal; immersed in one project, challenge or adventure. But I guess most of us are. Whilst I cycled the NC500 on my own, Ollie was an amazing companion, supporter, photographer and drone pilot!
I cannot recommend the North Coast 500 enough, whether you want to cycle or drive it. You could do it in six or sixty days and find so much to explore. It’s just so amazing! The NC500 website is the best place to start planning your trip.
BIKE: Sadly my bike was stolen a month before I cycled the NC500 so I was very grateful that RIBBLE stepped in and offered not only to build me a custom bike but to lend me one for this challenge. I rode the Endurance SL Disc in aluminium and what a way to test ride it! I can definitely say it passed the test!
THANK YOU OLLIE! Massive thanks to Ollie for accompanying me on the NC500 - we only met a few weeks earlier sailing around Norway! Not only are the photos outstanding and an amazing memory of the experience, but it was so great to have company and support. Big thanks Ollie you are total legend and made this adventure unforgettable! OllieColeman.com
Places to explore shared from a friend:
· Applecross (many people camp in the bay, at the beach, which has the advantage of being able to walk to the Applecross Inn or the Walled Garden for food, which is worth it). You could also drive a few miles north to the Sands beach.
· Torridon – this is a lovely spot. Very scenic. I love this walk: https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/Beinndamh.shtml drive or cycle all the way to Lower Diabaig. Fabulous views there, and also fabulous tearoom / restaurant https://www.gille-brighde.com
· Red Point Beaches: Before Gairloch turn left to Badachro and eventually reach Red Point Beach https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/Redpoint.shtml
· Mellon Udrigle: Keep driving north and you reach Lairg. There turn left to reach the tiny settlement of Mellon Udrigle, which has the most magical beach ever. Real hidden gem. DON’T MISS IT! https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/torridon/mellonudrigle.shtml
· Gruinard Bay – beautiful but very busy with campervans etc. Before you reach it, there is some sort of scenic point, where you can stop. By climbing up the wee hill above, there are some flat areas, where possibly you could camp if not windy (but I think Mellon Udrigle is better)
· Scoraig peninsula – worth driving to Badrallach all the way to the (commercial) bothy and campsite. You could even walk to the remove community of Scoraig, only accessible by foot. I did this walk when I went which is amazing. https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/scoraig.shtml
· Nearby, still in Wester Ross, this walk is amazing if good weather https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/sail-mhor.shtml and so is this one https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/tollanlochain.shtml, one of the most magnicent corries in Scotland
· Achiltibuie (north of Ullapool) – worth driving via this lovely and very picturesque place (ok not on NC500 officially, but hey), You could stop and climb Stac Pollaidh hill on the way (very easy and pretty quick) https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/stacpollaidh.shtml then keep driving along the coast to Lochinver. Stunning views on Suilven mountain. The scenery in Assynt is absolutely unbelievable. You will love it.
· Storr peninsula – again don’t go back to the main road but do the whole Storr peninsula loop. You can walk to the Old Man of Storr, an impressive sea stac.
· In Kylesku, you can mountain bike to the Glendhu bothy on the loch called https://www.mountainbothies.org.uk/bothies/northern-highlands/glendhu/ . I saw people with mountain bikes who had just done that (I was in a kayak). You can see some of this route here https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ullapool/inchnadamph-kylestrome.shtml
· Kinlochberview – Sandwood bay is a classic in terms of going wild camping. Very stunning. https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/sutherland/sandwood-bay.shtml
· Balnakeil beach near Durness is not to be missed. Very beautiful, especially all the dunes on a sunny day. Not sure about wild camping as there is a MOD station nearby, but probably ok.